Casa Santoña in the Guía Miguelín
Read the complete article in Spanish here.
Arriving at Los Molinos by the Guadarrama motorway, in the first roundabout you see a sign with an arrow directing you towards Casa Santoña. The street is full of potholes before you arrive to the paved section. The restaurant is located in an old house. It is known primarily for its anchovies, and the factory where they prepare them used to be very near, although the basic ingredients come from Santoña.
It struck me at the time how they processed the basic ingredients in the old factory, but the new one is completely different. As Don Hilarión said,
“Science (here we would be speaking of technology) is always advancing at an outrageous pace.”
Nowadays the anchovies arrive in brine from Santoña, and the process is as follows: the bones are removed, removing the spine, skin and scales. Then the next phase, “deboning”, is done manually with tweezers. Finally the anchovies are dried and packaged.
Not only do they prepare anchovies, marinated sardines and white marinated anchovies, but they have expanded to tinning cockles, mussels and razor shells. They bring the basic ingredients in from Galicia, and they have begun to market their products in speciality stores. These anchovies are sold in quarter- and half-kilo containers at the restaurant, which in winter is only open at weekends.